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Swell

This weekend was a long time in coming. Southern California has been severely lacking in the swell department for sometime now, so much so that I have returned home from quite a few drives to the beach without even paddling out. And I don't really mind smaller waves...there just weren't any at all.

Apparently as a gift from the god of autumn, we were blessed with three glorious days of a peaky, swell combo this past weekend. I paddled around for as long as my shoulders could handle it, and managed to come away with a very memorable stand-up barrel on Saturday, and myriad long-ass, shreddy rides on Sunday. I am satiated. Well, for a day or two at least.

One of the biggest bummers for me regarding surfing, is not having a water housing. Another is not being able to safely leave my camera gear on the sand while I paddle out to snag a few peaks. Needless to say, my camera rarely accompanies me on trips to the beach, because I have yet been unable to convince myself to photograph in lieu of catching waves. Hopefully some day that will change. Until then here are a couple of photos taken with my iPhone 5. One photo depicts activities prior to surfing, the other, after. I'll let you guess which is which.


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